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Both products turn home equity into cash. They are not interchangeable. A cash-out refinance tears up the mortgage you have and writes a bigger one. A HELOC (or a fixed home-equity loan) sits in second position and leaves the first lien alone. If that first lien is 3.25%, the second option is the whole thesis. The refinance break-even calculator assumes you are replacing the loan on purpose. This page is for when you might not want to.
Updated 2026-09-08 · 11 min read · Educational, not lending or tax advice. Run the HELOC vs cash-out calculator with your balance, current rate, and cash need.
Ignore the monthly payment until you have written these down:
| HELOC | Cash-out refinance | |
|---|---|---|
| What happens to the first mortgage | Stays. Same rate, same payment, same term. | Paid off. New rate on the entire new balance. |
| Rate on the new dollars | Usually variable (prime + margin). A fixed HELOAN is the cousin. | Fixed (or ARM) on the whole loan, typically a bit above a rate-and-term refi. |
| Closing costs | Often $0–$500. Some lenders recoup if you close the line in year one. | Typically 2–5% of the new loan — not of the cash extracted. |
| Payments | Two: existing P&I plus interest (often interest-only in the draw period). | One new P&I, usually reset to 30 years. |
| When it wins | You have a cheap first lien, a modest cash need, or a short project. | The new rate beats the old one, you want one payment, and you will stay past break-even. |
Worked slice
Keep the 3.25% loan (~$1,360 P&I on 25 years left) and add HELOC interest-only on $50k at 8.25% (~$340). Combined ~$1,700. Cash-out $338k at 6.5% for 30 years is ~$2,140 — and you just re-priced $280k of cheap debt.
Flip the rates
Now cash-out is a rate-and-term refinance that happens to spit out cash. Run the break-even on the whole new loan, not just the $50k. Closing costs sit on $330k+, not on the kitchen.
Interest on a loan secured by your home is deductible only as acquisition indebtedness: money used to buy, build, or substantially improve that same home. Combined cap for loans after December 15, 2017 is $750,000 ($375,000 married filing separately). The 2025 tax package kept that cap in force for 2026; it did not bring back the old $100,000 “home-equity indebtedness” bucket for credit-card payoffs.
Most households take the 2026 standard deduction ($16,100 single / $32,200 joint / $24,150 HOH) and deduct $0 of mortgage interest either way. Do not pick a product for a write-off you will not use. Confirm Publication 936 and whether you actually itemize.
Combined loan-to-value = (first lien + new HELOC or cash-out) ÷ current value. Conventional cash-out often wants ≤ 80%. HELOC programs go to 80–90% depending on score and occupancy. Crossing 80% on a cash-out can put PMI back on a loan that had already dropped it — see how PMI ends.
Underwriters do not care that “it is my house.” They care about back-end DTI on the new payment. A HELOC interest-only draw looks cheaper on paper than a 30-year amortizing cash-out; the repayment period later is not cheaper. Plug the harsher payment into the DTI calculator.
Prime moves. A HELOC at prime + 0.5% that looks like 8.25% today is 10.25% if prime jumps 2 points, and the payment on interest-only dollars moves the same day. The calculator prints that +2% line. If that version wrecks the budget, you wanted a fixed home-equity loan (HELOAN) or you wanted to wait. Do not use a HELOC as a checking account. The draw period (often 10 years) is a project window, not a lifestyle.
People compare “$7,500 to cash-out vs $0 to HELOC” and stop. The honest unit is cost per dollar extracted. $7,500 to pull $50,000 is 15% day-one friction. $7,500 to pull $50,000 and cut the rate on a $400,000 balance is a refinance that happens to include cash — price it as a refinance. Rolling costs into the new loan does not make them free; you pay interest on them for years. Same rule as the break-even guide.
A recast (lump-sum principal, same rate, lower payment, small fee) is the move when you have cash to put in, not take out. Do not confuse it with a cash-out.
Qualify first with DTI and how much house. Rate-and-term without cash is refi vs extra principal. Paying the house down vs investing is the premium extra-vs-invest playbook.
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Keep-the-lien vs replace-the-lien, 5-year cash paid, remaining debt, CLTV, +2% HELOC shock, shareable URL.
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Use-of-funds test, CLTV file, which quote to ask for, when a recast beats both.
Not tax, legal, or lending advice. Confirm Publication 936, your loan estimate, and a licensed professional. Premium restore: /account.